This is the complete setup of the new way of measuring the force after the kick.
The first picture shows all equipment used. The idea is based on measering the time that a photocel, mounted under the disc of the turntable, is blocked by a small piece of aluminium folie.
Since the length of the blocker is known, as well as the distance to the centre of the disc, the speed at the rim at the moment of the kick can be calculated.
Also the RPM at that moment is calculated.
I have to test if the used relay is fast enough. If it isn't I have to find an electronic replacement.
I will test all the ultra light wheels again, with this equipment.
Build-in in an old modem gives a professional result.
The last picture shows a test result on screen.
These pictures show the wheel with the magnets, the tool I use to balance the wheel, the balanced wheel on the tool and the wheel on the test turntable.
The first video clip shows the wheel when it starts and stops. The stator magnet is laying on place all the time.
To show a bit of the force I remove the stator magnet during the test on the last video clip.
Finally I found a way to test the principle of the Minato Wheel in an easy and fast way.
Earlier I made a turntable sized model with the magnets I use for my real wheel but this turned out to be the wrong way to test. Now I bought some Neodymium magnets 1/2" Diameter x 1/8" thick Disc Magnets from AmazingMagnets.com
With these magnets I can try a turntable sized wheel, with around 30 magnets and that gives a more realistic picture.
For creating test wheels I need polystyrene. polystyrene plates can be bought in Do It Yourself shops and mine are 15 mm thick. Then I use the round plate of my turntable as a template and a soldering iron to cut a wheel. Make a hole in the centre as well.
I also modified a soldering iron by replacing the top with a ring that is slightly smaller then a magnet. I sharpened the top.
The next step is to print a wheel with help of my program ‘Draw The Wheel’. The printed paper is temporarily fastened on the polystyrene disc with some tape. With a screwdriver I perforate the paper in the center of every magnet.
Now I push with the modified (and warm) soldering iron trough the paper for every magnet. The heat does that this job is fast and easy (but is smells: do this in a ventilated room).Look how the disc looks now. Just push the magnets on place and test the principle.
During 5 tests I already figured out some interesting facts (click on this line to see the test report):
I did those observations without any measurement tools; just with feeling. This is wrong of course so I have to make some rules on How to test.
- I was right about my present wheel and the one I planned to build: my present angle is wrong.
- More then 180 degrees with magnets is wrong.
- The angle between the magnets and the radius can be constant.
And do some more difficult measurements.
- Always test with North pointing out.
- Always use the same Stator magnet.
- Always have the stator magnet in the same position.
- Always start a rotation the same way (push the stator in place at the third magnet or so).
When these measurements can be done, the testing can be very serious. Then it’s possible to learn a lot about magnet arrangements and finally the step to the big wheel can be safely made.
- How much power gives the rotation.
- How fast turns the wheel after the magnets left the exit.
- Where does the wheel stop.
- How fast does the wheel stop.
My new TODO list looks now as following:
1. Have the round discs more automatically cut. This function is not neccesary but very convenient.
2. Find a way to test the wheel in vertical position. If possible use a magnetic bearing.
3. Make a tool to measure power.
4. Make a tool to measure speed.
5. Creating small counterweights.
Test model on the turntable.
And as a vertical device.
Here I show how a test is created, done and documentated.
The start is always the program 'draw the wheel' at this site. The created picture is then downloaded and opened in MS Paint.
The 4 printed pages (fit on one page should NOT be used here) are then cut and taped together.
The next step is to make the wheel out of polystyrene.
When all magnets are in position (north out) the wheel is balanced with help of some coppar nales.
Balancing is done in vertical position, because that's the easiest way. Since the test are done in horizontal position, the balancing is important but not critical.
After balancing the wheel is placed on the turn table.
The used Stator magnet is composed from a number of smaller magnets.
The red line is the start position. When everything is in place, the wheel can be released.
The stator is removed when the magnets are in opposite.
Important is to count the number of rotations after the 'cick'.
After a few times running the same test and the results are more or like the same, the total number of degrees rotation can be written in the log.
Time for a new test: just change something in the magnets layout and build again.
From printing to testing will take around 30 minutes.