|Before you read the contents of this document, that contains all information about
the Mikell device that is on the Internet, please read the following message, found at
http://groups.msn.com/VonBraunPhysics, as message number 356. |
Eric Vogels (collector of the information).
The following definition is made from fragments in the original posting of Mikell at
Mikell's statements are written in green Italic style.
Copper donut that is 41.25 inches in diameter.
The hole in the middle is 18".
This makes the diameter of the pipe the donut is made from: 41.25 - 18 = 23.25 / 2 = 11.625 inches.
Picture a winding candy cane stripe around a cylinder.
Ok now bend that cylinder into a donut shape. When you look at it the stripe on the donut is one stripe
spiralled around the entire donut - inside and out. It is on this spiralling stripe that the one inch by one inch neodymium magnets are glued about half an inch from one another on the entire spiralling stripe all around the copper tube i call the donut unit.
Q Is it hollow?
Q How thick is it?
A A quarter of an inch thick.
While the donut or stator magnets are 3 dimensional which allows them to taper off AND the donut magnets are not aligned in straight rows but instead in a twirling formation like a vortex or a spiral with all positive ends pointing outward. The donut looks like it has a swirling candy cane stripe on it.
The hourglass shape is cut from a single piece of sheet plastic very hard plastic 1/4 inch thick
The plexiglas is flat and shaped like an hourglass.
Two dimensional so that it confirms to the shape of the tire in that it is wider at the outer edges like the donut
is and narrow in the centre like the donut is.
Two-dimensional from end to end the hourglass is about a little over three feet.
The same as the three-dimensional donut's diameter.
Well if you took a circle and divided it into 6 halves like a honey cone and just kept the two opposite sides (eliminating the two sides to the left and the two sides to the right) you would have the exact dimensions which make up the hour glass shape.
Q And is the hour glass straight side or bowed or curved concave or convex as it radiates from the waist to the outer edge of the cones?
A Straight and flat like my brother's head.
Q Looking straight down at the hourglass while its in a stationary HORIZONTAL position: Is the top row (or first) row of magnet POLARITY (pointing down) negative?
Ssecond row positive down, third row negative down, 4th row positive down,
5th row negative down, 6th row positive down, 7th row negative down?
Q Does all the above apply to BOTH sides of the hourglass?
A Yes. All hourglass rows are pointing directly down at the donut.
The hourglass magnet layout is every other row positive and negative but more important is that they are in STRAIGHT configuration
Q Looking at the waist center shaft of the hourglass-- do all seven rows of magnets start from the outside diameter and point directly to the center shaft in a V type formation on either side of the hourglass?
A yes they are all in rows that are patterned after the actual shape of the flat hour glass form.
Magnets 889 + 112 = 1001
Magnets all 889 of them on the donut
The donut or stator has 889 neodymium magnets one inch by one inch by one inch in a swirling or spiralling formation, which means a single row only swirling around the donut in a coiled formation. In this coiled row the magnets are about 1/2 inch apart from one another tip to tip with all positive ends pointing outwards. Each pass of this coiled row is about 4 inches from row to row.
The hourglass form has 112 neodymium magnets one inch by one inch by one inch.
Q Are there an equal number of positive and negative magnets on the donut ring?
Q Did you have about 47 complete loops around the 9 inch diameter donut walls?
There is only one problem:
Where to find a donut
One way is Metal Spinning
Spinning is a process that enables the production of a great variety of rotationally
symmetrical parts of widely differing materials and sizes. The process combines process
flexibility, repeatability and economic manufacture. It can be thought of as pottery with metal.
Click here to read a 15 pages Metal Spinning Tutorial.
Q What "glue or epoxy" did you use to secure the neodymium magnets onto both the copper donut and flat hourglass?
A Super glue.
Q Also, you indicate that there is a gap of about one full inch between the magnets of the fixed donut ring
A Yes, one inch between the magnets of the hourglass magnets and the donut magnets at the donuts highest curved surface.
Q By the way, are you using just one bearing at center of the hour glass or is there a shaft running through the axis of the hour glass which has more than one bearing, say one in the middle (at the narrow waist), and one at each end of the hour glass (at the widest part of the conical sections)?
A This second unit has a one inch copper pipe for a shaft. It goes like this, the hourglass has a bearing in the middle of it which is attached to the copper shaft. That copper shaft goes down about 15 inches to a second bearing which is attached to the centre rim of the size 17" truck tire we are using as a foundation for the unit. The donut is between the tire and the hourglass. There are braces that come out of the inner edge of the donut that are fixed to the shaft where there is another bearing. The weight of the donut is supported by the tire as the donut lays directly on the tire.
Q It would seem to be very difficult to balance the armature just by using only one bearing in the narrow middle section as any unbalancing of the ends of the armature, (due to unequal positioning of mass or unequal magnetic forces) would seem to exert very strong loads on to the middle section, kind of like an unbalanced washing machine rumbling around and going off kilter.
A It would seem from first thought that the configuration or arrangement of the polarity of the magnets of the donut ring magnets could be either positive or negative with the alignment in or out, since you are using alternating polarity with the donut ring, that is an unbiased outer magnetic field. But perhaps the direction of turning of the hourglass might shift clockwise or counter clockwise (depends on which axis one views the machine), but that is just speculation on my part at this time.
A possible shape of the device
The spiral is wrapped around the donut like this.
The magnets are possibly wrapped around the donut like this.
But if we want the magnets to taper, it could look like this.
This way the magnets are pointing down into hole like a vortex.
A message from Mikell
How to make a 2 dimensional model before you go for the donut.
The story continues...
Mikell understood that we wanted a cheaper and easier to build device to do some initial tests with, before we could build a donut.
The following description is made from the emails that Mikell sent.
Mikell did not make the pictures and drawings. They are a collection of work and thoughts of others, which tried to understand and build the
NONE OF THEM MANAGED TO BUILD A WORKING 2D MODEL BEFORE MIKELL STOPPED COMMUNICATING!
Mikell's statements are written in green Italic style.
I understand the problem you're having if the hourglass did not rotate.
You first need to make a small unit that I made when I made four of them to put on an old broken remote control toy 4 w d.
The remote didn't work but the truck powered itself by the turning of the starter disks.
1) Get a big paper and draw the 6 legs of a galaxy on it with each curved leg about 14 inches long spiralling inward just like a galaxy.
The spiral should be widespread and not too tight.
2) Now glue this artwork to a big piece of wood.
3) Now glue the magnetic cubes to the galaxy legs with all the negative ends glued down and a 1/2 inch gap between each magnet.
4) Find the centre of the galaxy and drill a 1/4 hole there to insert a 1/4 inch wooden dowel in the hole.
Drill a 1/4 inch hole through the centre of a gulf ball and slide the gulf ball down the dowel until the ball rests on the artwork.
5) Now get a piece of balsa wood that is flat about 24 inches long and one two inches wide and 1/4 inch thick.
Find the centre of this flat wooden bar and drill a hole in its centre.
6) Next glue more magnetic cubes to this wooden bar 1/2 inch apart from one another.
Be careful that you not glue a magnet over the centre hole. These magnets are arranged this way: two magnets with their negative ends glued to the bar followed by one with its positive end glued to the bar. Now repeat this (2 then 1 then 2 then 1 and so on) for an equal arrangement on both sides of the centre-drilled hole.
7) Now, place this wooden bar up-side-down on the wooden dowel and slide the wooden bar down the dowel until it rests on the gulf ball and release it.
Now the fun starts!
The bar will begin to spin in one direction.
Once you have done this and see the tangible success you are having you will then understand how to build a more three-dimensional donut unit that works even better.
Q Do you know if there are other working models?
A Yes. There is one in France that I know of that has duplicated the galaxy unit and it works.
At first it didn't because he coiled the legs of the galaxy to tightly but after I corrected him and he re-did it then it worked.
Email with instructions.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: your working magnetic motor mentioned at http://freeenergy.greaterthings.com
I'm getting the pictures ready soon. Here is some specs i wrote to NN:
hello again. i just read your other post before this one. now i will try to answer all your questions per batum:
I can understand the potential for a strong electric shock as you have a copper conductor with the donut ring being influenced by a changing complex magnetic field derived from the spinning magnets on your hour-glass.
If I understand your configuration correctly, the donut is made of copper with a ring of magnets on the inside of the ring,
No. not just the inside of the ring. picture a winding candy cane stripe around a cylinder. ok now bend that cylinder into a donut shape. when you look at it the stripe on the donut is one stripe spiralled around the entire donut - inside and out. it is on this spiralling stripe that the one inch by one inch neodymium magnets are glued about half an inch from one another on the entire spiralling stripe all around the copper tube i call the donut unit.
but I was wondering what the hour glass is made of?
the hourglass shape is cut from a single piece of sheet plastic very hard plastic 1/4 inch thick like plexiglass
Is the hour glass also copper?
Is the hour glass solid or is the core of the conical sections hollow like a "Dunce hat" or conical bottle. If it is solid metal this thing must weigh a lot.
the plexiglass is flat and shaped like an hourglass.
two demintional. why? so that it conforms to the shape of the tire in that
it is wider at the outer edges like the donut is and narrow in the center like
the donut is.
That is an interesting approach of having the magnets kind of wrap around the sides of the donut ring.
no, not wrapping around like in a three demensional actual hourglass shape. more simple. two demensional. but we have thaought of your idea its just that it will take alot more to build what you are thinking of. you have a good thought in mind. interesting.
I'm trying to envision the angle that is formed by the hour glass; what is the angle of the surfaces of the hour glass shape. You indicate that the hour glass is one foot nine inches in length on each side of the "waist", which is quite a long ways out from the donut ring; what is the diameter of the hour glass, that is the cone at its outermost edge?
two demensional so no cone as you now know. from end to end the hourglass is about a little over three feet. the same as the three demensional donut's diameter.
Basically, is the hour glass narrow and long or fat, relative to its rational axis length?
well if you took a cirlce and divided it into 6 halves like a honeycone and just kept the two opposite sides (eliminating the two sides to the left and the two sides to the right) you would have the exact demensions which make up the hour glass shape.
And is the hour glass straight side or bowed or curved concave or convex as it radiates from the waist to the outer edge of the cones?
staight and flat like my brother's head.
Yes. it started off slower than it usually did but then was getting up to speed when the weights slung off and then it hoped around the basement until the other half fell off. then the shaft was bent and the bearing squeeked.but i fixed it.
suspect that one could probably determine the force generated by your machine
by measuring the acceleration of the turning hour glass and knowing its weight,
because one could calculate the torque being applied to bring it up to
speed. For ease of calculating, one would just not worry about the
friction of the bearings and friction of the ambient wind and such, as they are
probably modest, if you have quality bearings and a well balanced
oh no, you dont have to help it spinn. when you
release the brake all at once the flat hour glass instantly rotates and in
about one or two seconds you cant even see the magnets on the hourglass any
more because it is going to fast.
yes the weights almost did hit my leg.
this second unit has a one inch copper pipe for a shaft. it goes like this, the hourglass has a bearing in the middle of it which is attached to the copper shaft. that copper shaft goes down about 15 inches to a second bearing which is attached to the center rim of the size 17 truck tire we are using as a foundation for the unit. the donut is between the tire and the hourglass. there are braces that come out of the inner edge of the donut that are fixed to the shaft where there is another bearing. the weight of the donut is suported by the tire as the donut lies directly on the tire.
would seem to be very difficult to balance the armature just by using only one
bearing in the narrow middle section as any unbalancing of the ends of the
armature, (due to unequal positioning of mass or unequal magnetic forces) would
seem to exert very strong loads on to the middle section, kind of like an
unbalanced washing machine rumbling around and going off kilter.
nope. the magnets ALWAYS only go in one direction-clockwise. if you try to spinn the hourglass counter clockwise it will almost break your wrist! there are two things going on here i think:
1) the hourglass magnet layout is every other row positve and negative but more important is that they are in STRAIGHT configuration
2) while the donut or stator magnets are 3 demensional which allows them to taper off AND the donut magnets are not alligned in straight rows but instead in a twirling formation like a vortex or a spiral with all positive ends pointing outward.the donut looks like it has a swirling candy cane stripe on it.
3) the hourglass form is flat and two demensional while the donut is three demensional and curved in all directions with the literal overall demensions of a sphereical donut.
so you have a "drawing in of" force from
the donut configuration towards the "straight" configuration of the
hourglass magnets. since this swirl formation of the donut disapears behind the
outer edge of the donut and then reapears in an off set direction from
underneath to pick back up where it left off i believe that the hourglass is in
a constant motion trying to find the path of least resistance but instead only
finds an endless repeat of the angled swirle force that again tapers off behind
the donut and the hourglass gets somehow cheated from making its complete round
like in from beginning to end, it instead begins with the effort of finding the
end but never finds the end. a straight
two demensional formation over a spiralled
three demensoinal formation where everythng is opposite one another even
the polarity is opposite in that one is positive ends pointing out only
where the other is every other row. sort of an opposite reaction within an
opposite reaction. i believe that this is the majic that makes the donut
no. on the donut ring only the positve ends point outward. no negaitves.the hourglass has the equal amount of positive and negatives, row by row all straight.
How many magnets on the donut ring and how many on the hour glass?
the hourglass form has 112 neodymium magnets one inch by one inch by one inch. the hourglass form is devided into two halves from its "waist" as you put it. each half has 56. each half has 7 rows with 8 magnets in each row about a 1/2 inch apart from one another in that row over a distance of one foot in each row measured from the outer edge inwards. the other 9 inches from there towards the waist center where the bearing is, is blank and empty as this inner 9 inch area is not over the donut anymore but over the donut hole. row 1 has negative ends only pointing downwards. row 2 has only positive ends pointing downwards. row 3 again negative and row 4 positve and so on.
the donut or stator has 889 neodymium magnets one inch by one inch by one inch in a swirling or spiraling fromation which means a single row only swirling around the donut in a coiled formation. in this coiled row the magnets are about 1/2 inch apart from one another tip to tip with all positive ends pointing outwards. each pass of this coiled row is about 4 inches from row to row.
I ask to determine if there are equal but opposing magnetic forces on the
non-moving outer ring or a biased field with uneven number or force of
magnets. It sounds as if the hour glass is equal but alternating.
straight out but following the natural path from a common center point so that the further out you go the more room between each row.
Are the magnets on the hour glass pointed perpendicular to the outer surface of the hour glass's conical shape or some other arrangement of alignment perhaps towards the inner edge of the donut ring?
all hourglass rows are pointing directly down at
yes, one inch between the magnets of the hourglass magnets and the donut magnets at the donuts highest curved survace.
i have never seen these lights before. maybe someday i will. by dad lives on wicks lane in billings mt where he owns a a cabin house to escape the southern sun.
hope my answers helped you a little.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: your working magnetic motor mentioned at http://freeenergy.greaterthings.com
hi again NN
ill answer all your questions now.
Hi Again, I wish to thank you for all this info you sent me. I have been personally trying to make this type of motor for years and won't give up. I am for a greener earth and the Mikell engine is the answer. No more gasoline/oil pollution. A lot of folks tell me it just can not be done. They are wrong. I am happy for your sucess. By reading the info you sent me I have a very good idea as to its construction. I have several more questions in addition to those you already answered:
Just how and what did you use to construct the large copper donut itself?
the copper donut that is 3 feet in diameter came to me already built that way. it came from my dad's work place. they manufacture these hollow copper donuts that are then placed into a large stamping machine that crushes it into a flat seal with ridges on it and then they insert this into their scram jet engines that they are experimenting with. he had some in his truck one day and i wanted one before they staped it into a seal. since it was rejected in their quality control for errors i got to keep 8 of them.
Is it hollow?
How thick is it?
pretty thick. a quarter inch thick.
In example: Is it made from bent sections of 4 inch diameter copper pipe? 3 inch copper pipe, ect?
no. i think they are made from a thick sheet of copper and then curved into a cylindrical shape and sealed at the seam and then heated and curved with a large pipe bending machine until both cylinder ends meet and then sealed together.
What "glue or epoxy" did you use to secure the neodymium magnets onto both the copper donut and flat hourglass?
good ol fashioned super glue.
I find it very hard to get two like poles on a 1 inch square neo magnet very close to each other. How did you manage to get like poles so close and then securely mount those magnets in position without them pushing away from each other in the process?
simple. at first i had the problem of them sticking together. so i devised a simple solution. i made a wooden brace that looked like a three shelfed bookcase about 4 inches tall and a little over one inch wide. I placed this little brace onto the candystripe and then placed three magnets, one in each hole of the three shelves in the little brace, and then put glue on the bottoms of these magnets and then pressed the magnets on the candy stripe. i waited for about 2 minuts and then removed the shelf brace. this is how i got perfect spacing between the magnets. i did this to all the magnet until finally all the magnets were on firmly. all 889 of them. I did the sam thing with the magnets on both halves of the hourglass.
In your letter you refer to a positive row and negative row. Is positive NORTH polarity and negative SOUTH polarity?
Looking staight down at the hourglass while its in in a stationary HORIZONTAL position: Is the top row (or first) row of magnet POLARITY (pointing down) negative? second row positive down, third row negative down, 4th row positive down, 5th row negative down, 6th row positive down, 7th row negative down ?
Does all the above apply to BOTH sides of the hourglass?
I am looking forward for any photos you can send me and I whenever you get the chance to answer the above questions I will greatly appreciate it. A lot of things will be clear to me then. Many Thanks
i want to suprise the people at that site with my very good photos and videos. for now ill try to send a drawing.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 1:02 AM
Subject: Re: MAGNET MOTOR
i'll try to answer your questions:
>Hi Mikell, I still am working on a small scale model of you motor. You were kind enough to send me info as to its construction as well as answer a few questions I had. The below points will clear up evey thing in my mind about the construction:
>Looking at the waist center shaft of the hourglass-- do all seven rows of magnets start from the outside diameter and point directly to the center shaft in a V type formation on either side of the hourglass?
yes they are all in rows that are patterned after the actual shape of the flat hour glass form.
> The 36 inch donut you used had 9 inch diameter walls.
why do you think they were 9 inch diameter walls? do you mean 9 inch diameter from outer edge to inner edge of the donut? the donut is a little more than three feet in diamter overall but the donut hole is smaller than you may be percieving. the inner donut hole is 18 inches across when measured from the inner donut surface to the other inner donut surface. this means that since the donut is 41.25 inches in diameter which means that 41.25 - 18 = 23.25 inches is the actual donut diameter of the observable surface relative to above perspective or you could say that the donut thickness is 11.625 inches if measured from the outer edge of the donut to the inner edge (inner diameter of the donut inside) of the donut with a straight ruller. the cercumferance of the donut wall is thus figured like: (11.625 x 3) + 2.179/inch = 37.054 inch circumferance.
>Did you wind the magnetic stripe right to left?
no, actually from left to right which is why the hourglass turns clockwise relative to an observer looking down at it.
>Did you have about 47 complete loops around the 9 inch diameter donut walls?
the donut wall again is 11.625 inches in diameter. i understand that you were going according to my rough statement of "three feet". the answer is 35.991902 loops or just say 36 roughly.
About that many loops figure the 889 one inch magnets you used for construction.
yes, exactly 889 magnets but not 47 loops, its 36. i think that you may have been forgetting the .5 inch space between each magnet. thus each 1 inch magnet accompanying a .5 inch space would be defined as a 1.5 unit of measurement. thus 37.054 divided by 1 unit (1.5 inches) equals 24.7 magnets per one complete revolution of the candy stripe around the donut or loop as you say and 36 loops equal 889 donut magnets.
You mentioned 4 inches row to row spacing. Explain - as the math does not fit the 889 magnets you used.
oh yes it does. between each row of magnets lies a space of 5 inches and one of those inches is occupied by a 1 by 1 by 1 inch magnet thus leaving only 4 inch spacing between each of the spiralled rows (or loops).
I am very excited about you motor and hope to recieve E mail from you. I don't wish to construct my scaled down version of your motor any further untill I clear up the above points in my mind
well i hope this helped you. i am not so good at explaining things like jason is.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 12:55 AM
Subject: Re: MAGNET MOTOR
> the .14 in your pie (3.14) is figured seperately in inches at 2.179 due to a slight oblong shape in my particular copper donut, a sort of slight oval shape. the 3.14 is applied to a round circumference where as to an oval i made an itemized breakdown to reflect the difference in the donut's shape. it does seem to fit all 889 magnets evenly.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 12:35 AM
Subject: Re: MAGNET MOTOR
david hamel huh? i'll research it. it sounds just like mine in some ways. cones? you know that a third prototype of our unit will use two cones? yes. one in the upper end of the donut and one in the lower end of the donut and since they will spin in opposite directions but are upside down the viewer will see that they are spinning in the same direction. we are going to take the flat hourglass and make it a three deminsional hourglass.
good idea about protections from the government. i am not as nieve about this as i first was starting out. good idea about making copies of the disks. i have heard that the cia has a gun that uses microwaves that they use to shoot someone with without that person knowing which supposedly drops that person's IQ down as far as they want it. you know maybe this country needs a revolution! i mean really because they have become nazis that cant be trusted.
tom, i am more excited about how it flies. this is now my obsession about it. me and jason are going to try to make a controlable unit using two satilite dishes fastened at their rims as a craft with the driving force at the bottom center. i am worried though about getting shocked again but he says this time it won't. we'll see. AND i told my dad i lost interest because he kept trying to make me dismantle the unit. he thinks i am no longer thinking about the unit but me and jason keep it secret and share it with the french researchers over the net. they said to be careful and keep quite so we are now. so far my friends are still gone and no one has any idea of where they are but atleast no one is calling the house anymore and no strange calls.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2003 12:35 AM
Subject: Re: David Hamel Book and Video Info on Anti-Gravity, ET's, Space Ships, and Telepor
interesting. you actually went to the trouble to send this to me and i appreciate it. want to know what me and jason are building since you are interested in this? look at the below message that me and jason shared with another freind of ours:
In order to build the Magnetic Drum or Pulsarus type ASC, you will need money. I know that building a small experimental version of about 10 feet in diameter remote controlled model will cost you around $5,000 using all new parts. A four seater human prototype-I should cost you around $15,000 with a diameter of about 25 feet. The component part that will cost the most will be the 10,000 volt capaciters of which you'll need 80 for the Human Prototype I and 40 for the preliminary remote prototype (PRP). Each capaciter will cost about $100. The magnets will cost:
Donut magnet----------PRP = $ 500--------HPI = $ 1,200
Lid Magnet------------PRP = $ 100--------HPI = $ 2,000
Puck Magnet----------PRP = $ 1,000------HPI = $ 4,000
40/ 10,000 high volt capacitors for the PRP $ 4,000
80 10,000 high volt capacitors for the HP-I ------------ $ 8,000
Voltage Regulater-----PRP = $ 100 ---------------$ 200
The body design is not shaped like a drum, it is shaped like a disk (flying saucer) The frame of this design for practical home purposes consists of an upper octagonal and lower octagonal frame. On paper, draw an octagon. Next, draw a line from one point of the octagon to the ooposite corner of the octagon. You should have eight lines that all intersect at the center of the octagon. These lines you drew are the actual frame work. These frame lines are actually bowed upwards in the center. The lower octagonal frame is bowed downwards in its center. Now, if you place the upper one on top of the lower one it will sort of look like two satelite dishes placed together. There is an idea, if you could get two satelite dishes the same size, you would have a very cheap version of the body design. One on top the other so that it would look like a flying saucer shape (theres a specific reason for this). The 50 gallon drum would be replaced with a hollow cylindrical shaft called the Drive Shaft 5 feet in diameter at the center of the craft. The capacitors are fastened to the outside of the Drive Shaft while the donut magnet is fastened to the inner center third of this shaft. The upper and lower disketts are fastened together at their rim edges AND at the point where the Drive Shaft meets the center of each disk but the shaft itself never touches either disk. So the disks are now firmly attatched to each other at the edges. (a second hollow cylindrical shaft attatches to the center of both disks and the Drive Shaft Assembly is inside this hollow outer shaft, the Drive Shaft is about 5 feet in diameter and the hollow outer shaft is about 7 feet in diameter. This hollow outer shaft is called the "Hual Shaft" because it actually attatches both disks together at the center of the craft) You can make what ever type of opening in the lower disk and Haul Shaft for serviceing. These rough notes are to describe the rough outlay of the PRP unit.
The Drive Shaft Assembly:
The Drive Shaft assembly consists of the shaft with the 10 outer capacitors attatched to it and the donut magnet (which is a sloppy version of a Gauss we'll discuss later) attatched to the inner third of the Drive Shaft and the lid magnet attatched to the top of the Drive Shaft and the puck magnet "free floating" in the center of the Drive Shaft once energized. The Drive Shaft is held to the craft by a rod that goes through the center of the Drive Shaft and is attatched to the Lid Magnet at the top (in the center of the Lid Magnet) and at the bottom floor of the Drive Shaft. This rod is called the Lift Rod and it must be very thick as it actually lifts the weight of the entire craft. Now this lift rod goes through the floor of the Drive Shaft and is attatched to a three way tounge and groove track. This three way track is movable and is firmly attatched to the floor of the bottom disk. There are three electric motors laying on their sides attatched to the bottom disk floor and they are electric hydraulic motors evenly spaced all pointing towards the Lift Rod. These have long rods attatched to them. These rods are attatched to the bottom of the Lift Rod going through the Drive Shaft. They are how you control the direction of the craft. If you want to go up and go north, then this vector is achieved by a steering system that these motors coordinate with your manual or computer system and one of them will push its rod x % while the other two pull x % which tilts the Drive Shaft assembly to vector the craft up while going north. If you want to fly north at a steady altitude then you will adjust your power outlet at the appropriate power setting for level flight and steer north. It is better to incorperate a computer to do the computations and run it in to a steering wheel. To best do this in a home unit, I found that you can use simple video game joysticks or steering wheels and the software that comes with video games can be incorperated into this craft so it becomes very simple after all thanks to Genisis game company.
The Haul Shaft
The Haul Shaft is about 8.5 feet in diameter. There are 10 automobile batteries (950 size) attatched to the outer edge at the bottom of the Haul Shaft where the Haul Shaft attatches to the bottom disk. These batteries are evenly spaced and firmly attatched to both the floor of the bottom disk and the Haul Shaft. The Haul Shaft is the main haul that attatched the two disks (upper and lower) together. It is the main brace for all drive assemblies to be affixed to as well as all other bracing to firm up the craft. In the Human version of this craft, occupants can only be housed in the upper disk because the eddy waves created in the bottom disk can be harmful to cell tissues. These eddy waves and micro waves created in the Haul Shaft is all ported towards the bottom of this shaft. In the upper disk, human occupants are in the upper disk not the upper Haul Shaft. To be more correct in the design of this craft, the inner walls of the Haul Shaft should be lined with a copper wire mesh with electrical current flowing through it to counter these effects. Especially the bottom portion of the lower disk should have this mesh, a Farady Cage of sorts, so that any spectators in the area under the craft would not be hurt. The only item inside the Haul Shaft is the Drive Shaft assembly and nothing else.
The power unit. I can supply you with a self reliant power supply, (which is the donut unit) but for your own simple experimentation puposes, you can use a gas powered generator that can be purchased from your local WallMart. You will also need an array of auto batteries to keep it simple. The PRP will use one battery for each of the 10 capacitors. Your WallMart generator should be attatched to the bottom disk floor as close to the Haul Shaft as possible for center of gravity. A large accesory fuel tank should be attatched to the opposite end of the bottom disk floor from where the generator is attatched to even out the weight.
A general overview:
Power comes in from the generator then goes to a high voltage regulator then from there it seperates into two main Streams: SREAM ONE goes to a computer controlled variable resistor and then from there it will go to all 10 batteries and then from there it will seperate into four main power supplies: Route One goes to all 10 Donut Magnet capacitors and then from there to a Gauss coiling that is wrapped around the Donut Magnet, there is where this first of four routes end. Route Two then goes to 10 capacitors attatched and evenly spaced on the outer edge of the bottom portion of the Puck Magnet and then from there to an electric coil wrapped around the bottom half of the Puck Magnet, there is where the second of four Routes end. Route Three then goes to 10 capacitors that are attatched and evenly spaced to the outer edge of the upper half of the Puck Magnet and then from there to an electric coil wrapped around the upper half of the coil of the Puck Magnet, there is where the third of four Routes end. Route Four then goes to 10 capacitors that are attached and evenly spaced to the outer edge of the Lid Magnet and then form there to an elecrtic coil wrapped around the Lid Magnet, there is where the fouth of four routes end. STREAM TWO goes to a computer controlled Steering Wheel and then from there it goes to the three electric hydraulic motors located at the bottom of the Drive Shaft Assembly. If you choose, you can have a THIRD STREAM go to dashboard gauges and exterior lighting and even life support systems.
Now rember Greg, the Puck Magnet is the most important component in the entire craft and it MUST wiegh the same as the entire rest of the craft with the weight of the occupants in order to dislpace the kenetic energy within its mass to the mass of the craft through the Lid Magnet that is attatched to the top of the Drive Shaft. The pulse of all 40 capacitors must be timed correctly. You will get this right as you experiment with it in your garage. When you get the timing equation down for the capacitors, you will save this equation to your selected computer that will be running your system. There is also a Fail Safe System, a big red button on the dash of your Human unit that you can push and it will shut down the computer and give the drive system the command to land the craft without the assistance of the computer in a pre-designated landing protocol. This basically lines up the Drive Shaft to a Nuetral vector and gradually disapates the power in the capacitors so that the craft lands itself natrually without need of pilot control or computer control or even power because the power in the capacitors are being dissapated slowly and the batteries will handle the needs of the drive system for up to an hour. You could also think about making a pressure switch that you hold between your index finger and your thumb so that if you ever passed out for any reason this switch would be activated as you are no longer pressing on it and with the absense of pressure on it for more than 15 seconds, the craft would go into the priority landing protocol. Because of the saucer design it will be very water bouyant. Give your computer a choice between one of say 2,000 landing sites cross referenced with a good GPS system that has its seperate backup power supply that will land the craft EXACTLY where you want in an emergency. Also it is a good idea to build your steering/navigational system with GPS and a seperate Compass system in case your GPS formed problems like it being turned off at the source by tricky dicks at Military sites. (who knows). In fancier home built units you may even use statelite type compaq lap top computers with coordinate systems already developed by Pratt and Whitney and others.
This unit has some of the uniqe designs that already exist but is a far cry from a real ASC. It will outfly anything they chase you with that is for definite. Speed capabiolity is Geometric which means that this craft is a Gv craft. This means that it will fly faster than your body can handle which is why I gave you the specs that I did incorperating natural limits into it. So maybe 1,000 mph. This unit is just a drive system only. No space seperator, no counter field production for elimination of inertia, no 360 degree manuverability, no field dampeners, no anti detection, no self reliant power source and no censor devices. Just a fun ride that you can build Greg and fly either in a remote control version or an occupant version.
Does this sound nuts? Of course it does. Who cares. Build it. Just remember to mark "EXPERIMENTAL" in orange paint on the top and also get FAA inspection before maiden flight so you're legal. Mainly they are interested in the saftey of the frame and the reliability of the drive system as a hazard to ground life. (really they're snooping for ideas to give to friends, we know that)
2008-03-02 Replication Mikell device
most designs I have tried to build did not work. However, the Mikell device which by the way does not look like a working device, is strange because of the e-mails.
It could be possible that someone made a fraud just to annoy us, and to make the design more interesting, this guy claims that the design must not be build because of government rights and because it is dangerous. That is really strange.
But since nobody tried this motor, maybe because of it's costs, I decided to try it myself. This is the only way to find out, if this motor is working or not. The flat 2 dimensional model of the Mikell Motor is absolutely not the same like the 3 dimensional donut motor. I have made a small donut using many layers of plywood and put them in shape by use of a mill. I wrapped self adhesive aluminium foil around because I don't know if a conductive surface is necessary (original donat is made of copper). I will buy round magnet rings with a hole, and fix them by screwing them into the wooden donut. The small donut I made has 400 mm of diameter, the hole inside is 200 mm. This is proportional to the original donut but only much smaller. But even the size is small I would need 332 Magnets to wrap them around.
Please see the enclosed picture. There are circles drawn on a small stripe of paper this represents the magnets. As you see, just to bend a barber roll is not so easy as it sounds. The distance of the magnet rows depends on the position on the donut. Outside there is a bigger distance than inside the donut. This is not mentioned by Mikell, so it could be that he has never built such a motor. Anyway I'm so stupid to try it out. I will have to pay 1 EUR for each magnet. This will be an expensive try. I have enclosed the picture of the donut with the paper stripes, and hope you have any necessary comments before I will fix the magnets, to increase the chance of working.
Please do not public my e-mail address. However this letter and the picture may be published!
2008-03-28 Report - Replication Mikell device
I have finished the Mikell Motor. Unfortunately it acts not like a motor but more like a statue. It is not self rotating. There are several reasons
1. This motor does not work and has never done in the past, Mikell is laughting his guts out, because we are so stupid to beleive everything.
2. The rotor and the stator has to be adjusted, which means the spacing between the rotor magnets must fit the pattern of the donut-stator magnets.
3. There are other importand issues not taken into account, like the original size and it's weight. I beleive that mass is a very importand factor to gain enough inertia. Only the right relation between the magnets and the inertia will lead to a successful design. This is my opinion.
Anyway this motor does nothing except it reduced my bank account. The cost for all magnets was about 500 EUR.